Archive for September, 2009

Home Office Lighting Tips

Monday, September 28th, 2009

With the traditional job market having yet to stabilize, more Americans are working from home today than ever before. Whether going freelance, starting a home business or simply telecommuting to save money, working at home generally requires a home office, be it a small desk tucked away in a corner of the kitchen, a coat closet converted into an office nook, or an entire spare room repurposed for the task. Whatever form your home office takes, it has its own set of special lighting requirements.

If your work space doesn’t get a lot of natural light, or if you do any nighttime work, then it’s important to create a good amount of ambient light. A “good amount” depends largely on what you do and what kind of mood lighting makes you most productive. A writer, for instance, might work better in a dimly lit room that encourages imagination; whereas a crafter might find a bright space to be more inspiring. Since overhead fixtures tend to be too bright, it’s best to use indirect lighting sources such as uplights or downlights that reflect light off of the walls and ceiling, creating a soft, diffused light that mimics natural light. If that’s not practical, consider putting your overhead light on a dimmer switch so that you can control the amount of light it spreads over the room.

To prevent eye strain, your computer screen should be brighter than the ambient light in the room (but should never be the only source of light). If the room has windows, place the computer monitor perpendicular to them to reduce glare and prevent the screen from getting washed out.
The most essential light in any work space is a good task light. This might take the form of a Banker’s Lamp, a simple table lamp, a floor lamp for reading or, in the case of a kitchen or closet office, under-cabinet lighting. Like the ambient light, your task light should also be dim enough that it doesn’t overpower your computer screen, and it should be placed near the spot where you’ll do non-computer work, on the opposite side of your dominant hand and low enough to prevent shadows from obscuring your work.

With these tips in mind, you’ll be able to create a comfortable and inspirational lighting scheme for your office that works as hard as you do.

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Lighting 101: Lighting In Layers

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

A common mistake many homeowners make is to rely on a single type of lighting to illuminate an entire room. While this may seem to get the job done, a room can become much more functional, and also more comfortable, by practicing the technique known as “light layering.” This technique uses the four main categories of lighting that we touched on earlier in our post on Kitchen Lighting. To recap, those categories are Ambient light, Task light, Accent light and Decorative light.

Ambient light should be the foundation layer. Usually provided by overhead fixtures, wall sconces and torchiere lamps, it’s the functional light that allows you to see the room. It tends to be soft and flattering, and can make a room feel cozy all by itself.

It’s not the best type of light for reading or working, though, and for that you need Task lighting. This is the second layer that brings focused illumination to a desk or a reading chair. The lighting source should optimally be between your head and the work surface to prevent shadows or glare, and should be bright enough to enable you to see what you’re doing without eye strain.

Our third layer is Accent light. Accent lighting draws attention to certain areas or features, such as the art lighting we discussed in our last post. Picture lights, track lighting, mantle lights and upward-pointing wall sconces are all examples of lighting that draws the eye and creates interest in a room.

Decorative light is the final layer. The focus here is more on the fixture than on the light it puts out. Think crystal chandeliers, Tiffany lamps and decorative sconces. The main function of decorative lighting is simply to look pretty and add sparkle while the other three types of lighting do the heavy lifting of providing functional illumination.

On their own, any one of these types of lighting can ensure that you don’t trip over the furniture. But by combining each of them in layers, you’ll create a comfortable, fully functional space that adapts to your changing needs and fully integrates with the room’s décor.

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Showing Art In The Best Light

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009

Artwork is one of the easiest and quickest ways to add a personal touch to your home décor. We learn this lesson early on, but if you’ve come here, chances are your tastes have moved beyond simply tacking posters on the wall. You know that if it’s worth hanging, it’s worth framing; and if it’s worth framing, it’s worth lighting well. What you might not know is that there are different lighting techniques and considerations to be aware of to place your artwork in the best light and preserve its quality for years to come.

For direct lighting, picture lights with halogen bulbs are best. Picture lights come in a wide range of styles that can either complement or blend into the picture frame without obstructing the artwork. Unlike incandescent or florescent lighting, halogen bulbs produce a pure, white light that doesn’t distort color or emit harmful radiation that could damage the painting over time. However, they tend to burn hot, so go for the lowest wattage that does the job and leave enough space between the light and the picture to prevent prints from burning or oil paints from melting. A good rule of thumb is to place your hand on the painting where the light hits it most directly; if the light feels too warm for your hand, it’s too warm for the picture, and needs more distance.

Glossy prints or glass-covered frames call for indirect lighting to reduce reflective glare. Track lighting or adjustable recessed lighting are both excellent for aiming enough light at a picture to illuminate it without shining directly on it. In a pinch, you can always just set a lamp nearby, but again, be cautious about the type of light bulb you allow near a painting. Even CFL bulbs produce enough UV rays to bleach out colors over time. Incandescent bulbs are less harmful, and their warm light can cast a flattering glow on your artwork that brings out yellows and reds. If you prefer to see it the way the artist intended, look for incandescent’s that put out a more natural, white light that equally lights the full spectrum.

No matter what type of bulb you use, it’s best not to light a painting any longer than necessary, since any type of bright light can eventually cause colors to fade. So be sure to turn out the light when nobody’s there to see it. Doing so will not only save the painting—it will also save on your electric bill.

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How To Clean Your Crystal Chandelier

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009

If you own a crystal chandelier, you might love the classical touch of beauty it brings to the room. You might also know that its beauty can fade as its sparkle becomes dulled by layers of dust and grime. Cleaning it might not sound like the easiest chore on the list, but depending on how dirty it is, it doesn’t have to be complicated. Here are three methods that will put back the shine with varying degrees of ease.

For all of these methods, you can either purchase a special chandelier cleaner, such as Sparkle Plenty, from a lighting retailer; or you can make your own solution of one part isopropyl alcohol to three parts distilled water.

Safety first – before starting, turn off the chandelier and give the bulbs plenty of time to cool down.

White Glove Method – This method can be a little tedious, but it doesn’t require taking the chandelier apart, and it creates very little mess. Put on a pair of white cotton gloves. Dampen one glove with your chosen cleaning solution, and keep the other dry. Working one crystal at a time, rub each one with the damp glove until it is clean, and then repeat with the dry glove to dry and prevent streaking.

Drip Dry Method – This is probably the easiest and quickest method, but also the messiest. First, cover the area underneath the chandelier with a drop cloth, some newspaper or an old sheet. Place a plastic bag over each light fixture and secure it with a rubber band to prevent any liquid getting into the sockets. With a spray bottle of solution, spray the chandelier from different angles, making sure to cover each crystal. Blot up any liquid that settles on any relatively flat surfaces, let dry overnight, remove the plastic bags, and you’re done!

Removal Method – This is the most involved method, but it is also the most thorough, and may be necessary if it’s been a long time since the chandelier’s last cleaning. The good news is, you only need to do this once to get it really clean. After that you can use one of the above methods for regular maintenance.

It’s a good idea to take a picture of the chandelier before you begin, so you’ll remember how to put it back together. Another good idea is to work on a section at a time, using the remaining sections as a guide to rehanging the crystals.

Line both sides of the kitchen sink with soft towels (if your sink only has one basin, you’ll need a dish pan or large bowl). Fill the first basin with water and gentle dish soap. In the second, place the cleaning solution mentioned above. Carefully remove the crystals and wash them in the soap and water solution. While they soak, dust the chandelier’s hardware and clean it with cleaning solution.

Once the crystals are free of spots, rinse off the soap and dip them in the second solution to bring out the sparkle. Wipe them dry with a soft, clean cloth, and place them on a soft surface until you are ready to return them to the chandelier. Once both the crystals and the hardware are dry, re-hang the crystals, referring to either the photo you took at the beginning or the sections you left untouched to make sure they’re hung correctly. When you’re done, turn on the lights and admire your chandelier now that it’s returned to its former glory!

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Understanding Energy Star, Dark Sky and ADA Lighting Regulations

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

Energy StarWhen shopping for lighting, you might notice different types of compliance listed on the packaging. You might guess that ADA Compliant, Energy Star, and Dark Sky all refer to good things, but what, exactly, do they mean? Are all of these different compliant standards something that the average homeowner should be worried about? The short answer is, it depends.

ADA refers to the Americans with Disabilities Act, which includes regulations pertaining to wall and ceiling light fixtures in public places. Private residences aren’t required to comply. For commercial zoning, the restrictions state that wall fixtures need to be mounted between 28 and 80 inches above the floor and shouldn’t extend more than four inches away from the wall. Ceiling fixtures must hang at least 80 inches above the floor.

Energy Star is the label developed by the Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy to denote compliance with governmental standards for energy efficiency. Besides the fact that more and more state and local laws are requiring newly-constructed homes to comply with these standards, you will probably want to look for the Energy Star label for more personal and practical reasons: it will help you save money on your energy bills, and will also help to reduce your carbon footprint by consuming less energy. Energy Star-labeled lighting products are also rigorously tested to meet national fire safety standards, all of which makes them a good choice, regardless of whether they are required by law.

Dark Sky Regulated, also known as Good Neighbor Lighting, is a term referring to lighting fixtures that are designed to cut down on glare, prevent bright lights from shining in your neighbor’s window, and reduce the phenomenon known as “urban sky glow”. It applies to outdoor lighting, and, like with Energy Star compliance, whether it’s a legal requirement depends on where you live, so check your local zoning laws to be sure. But, also like Energy Star, Dark Sky Regulated products are generally desirable whether they’re required or not. For one thing, they also help cut down on energy waste; and, like good fences, they help make good neighbors.

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